After the following photo post on our Facebook page was so popular, we thought a blog post on the topic of shaving would be a good follow-up.
Structure of the coat on a double coated dog (Image created by Brook Wilkins)
There are several different types of textures on dog’s fur, but in a general breakdown there are two coat types; single coated and double coated. A single coat means that there is only a top (or over) coat that grows all over the body with no different undercoat. Breeds such as Silky Terriers, Poodles, Bichons, for example, are ones with a single coat. These breeds can be shaven generally with the only thing potentially occurring to the coat is over time it may become softer or it may have a slight colour change. Even with only a single coat you want to be careful on when you shave them, especially if you shave them right down, as this, although may appear to feel cooler, leaves the dog exposed to the possibility of sunburn. A dog with a coat shaved right down in the height of summer should not spend any length of time in direct sunlight. With the simple fact that there is only one coat the hair grows back normally and even after a shaving.
A double coat means there is both a top (or over) coat made of tougher guard hairs and a bottom or (under) coat that is thick and soft. Breeds such as Pomeranians, Shetland Sheepdogs, Siberian Huskies, Samoyeds, are examples of double coated dogs. With a double coated dog they need to be groomed by brushing throughout the year but most heavily done in the spring when a major shedding period occurs. As the weather warms up the thick undercoat starts to do a complete shed, it detaches from the body and is often described as molting. When you look at a dog in shed, they have “tufts” of fur that is soft and dense peaking through the longer guard hairs of the topcoat, this is called molting.
A double coated dog in a full blown shed
All this dense undercoat needs to be brushed out of the dog or Stage 3 from the top image above occurs. The coat becomes impacted and matted, preventing air from being able to move between the dog’s topcoat and their skin. Once all this undercoat is removed the air can circulate between and through the hairs of the topcoat keeping the dog cool, while the topcoat keeps the skin protected from the sun. This topcoat can also protect the dog’s skin from fly and mosquito bites.
The question still remains then, why not shave them and just keep them out of the sun? For one, they may not actually be cool even if they are out of the sun, the topcoat can help to keep the heat off the skin itself and unlike people, dogs do not sweat through their skin. Dogs sweat by panting and in all but northern breeds, through the pads of the feet. Shaving them actually removes some of their natural ability to stay cool. Another reason is that when the hair does begin to grow back it tends to do strange things. For some, it may mean having patches that don’t grow at all, or that don’t grow both types of coat layers (top and under), older dogs often have issues with proper regrowth and then for others (which happens most often) the undercoat grows in faster than the topcoat (since the topcoat isn’t meant to shed extensively it grows extremely slowly) so now that protective topcoat is matted into the undercoat. Dogs like this generally appear as though they have thyroid issues. The hair looks fuzzy and varies in length all over the body. This doesn’t mean the coat will forever stay this way. Most of the time with regular brushing and the next shed cycle the topcoat will get longer while the undercoat sheds away, eventually leaving the coat the way it once was with long topcoat guard hairs and a thick shorter undercoat. One other thing to note about those topcoat guard hairs – they actually prevent the dog from getting wet. Due to the coarseness of the guard hairs water rolls off of this topcoat keeping the undercoat dry, which in the winter is important to keeping the dog warm and dry.
All of this being said there may be times where it is necessary to shave a double coated dog. In surgical/medical situations the coat must be shaved or if the undercoat has become so matted it can not be combed out, shaving is the only solution. Once the coat begins to grow in, keeping them brushed and free of matting will prevent the need to shave them in the future.
Bottom line?
The ideal situation: Keep the hair brushed, remove all the undercoat and allow the dog to remain with their natural ability to keep themselves cool and protected from the sun and some bug bites in the summer and warm and dry in the winter.
Additional sources of information:
http://blog.aspca.org/content/heat-wave-should-you-shave-your-pet
http://www.examiner.com/article/why-you-shouldn-t-shave-your-double-coated-dog
http://www.chetekvetclinic.com/groomingblog/postclippingalopecia.html
http://woof.doggyloot.com/truths-and-myths-about-shaving-dogs-with-double-coats/
http://blog.sergeants.com/2012/05/22/to-shave-or-not-to-shave/
Albert North Vet Clinic 
Kareem
/ August 27, 2016Hello, I have an opportunity to purchase a Samoyed from a breeder that has been shaved, not sure how many times, by his previous owner, and then returned to the breeder. He’s only 10 months old. The breeder says it’s likely his coat will return because it’s his “puppy coat”. Would you say it’s likely that his coat will grow back? It is not patchy, just short (all undercoat it seems).
anvcmarketing
/ August 29, 2016It is likely the coat will grow back normally. It will be important to brush the coat on a regular basis while it is growing in to reduce the thick undercoat so the guard coat can come in properly. Being a puppy certainly helps as their coat changes a lot as they mature.
Kathryn L Surchek
/ October 13, 2016We made the mistake of shaving our Aussie and now that her coat is growing back in we see that in patches on her back it seems the undercoat isn’t growing back in, just the course hair on top. Do you think that will improve with the next shed cycle?
anvcmarketing
/ October 13, 2016There is potential it will, it is hard to say. The important thing will be keeping her well brushed so that all the hairs can grown in without hinderance.
Stephanie Deason Norwood
/ March 6, 2017Is it ok If I post this on my grooming site? It’s a wonderful article. I own a grooming salon and have explained this so many times and would love to post This
anvcmarketing
/ April 10, 2017As long as we are properly credited and linked to your sharing, absolutely you may do so!
Kyla
/ April 11, 2017Hi. My groomer shave my double coated sheep dog super short against my wishes! Is there anything I can do to get my dogs coat to grow back in properly?
anvcmarketing
/ April 12, 2017The best thing you can do is keep it well groomed while it is growing in.
TheNerdy9
/ June 14, 2017How about hybrid poodles? They don’t have much, if any, undercoat – but the hair can get matted if not properly brushed. Same concept?
anvcmarketing
/ June 14, 2017I am not sure what you mean when you say “hybrid poodles”, if you mean the mixes like Labradoodles, etc. then coat care is going to be dependant on the coat type the end up with. Any mix of breeds, until there is consistancy in the litters, can have any mix of coats. Poodles and labs in general do not have an undercoat (like the northern and spitz type breeds have), however they would need regular coat care, especially if they have the curly coat, which yes, can definitely matt and cause skin issues. The coat should either be clipped to keep it from matting or regularly brushed.
Kathy
/ June 16, 2020Good article. I recently watched a video on how to line brush a double coat breed. I have been using that technique on my Aussie. It gets through the undercoat much more efficiently without pulling.
anvcmarketing
/ June 17, 2020Yes Kathy, line brushing is the perfect way to remove all the undercoat in an efficient and gentle manner. That is great you found a video on it. Perhaps you can share the link in the comments for others.